No matter the weather, now's the time for ice cream, gelato and sorbet. Summer's fruit is at its peak and Bay Area artisan ice cream makers are turning the produce into impressive frozen concoctions. Many make only small batches and use local, seasonal ingredients - organic whenever possible.
In the past, ice cream, rather than gelato (which is denser and generally not as sweet or rich), was de rigueur in stores like decades-old Fenton's, Mitchell's and Tucker's. Many newer stores, including Bi-Rite Creamery and Ici, instead focus on the Italian gelato style and often endorse environmental friendly practices like using reusable metal tasting spoons.
One of the artisan pioneers, Sketch in Berkeley, is closing, but others who churn their own continue to open. Here are some of the latest. For a lengthier list, go to sfgate.com/food. Tara's Organic Ice Cream Tara Esperanza and her husband, Raciel, moved their Santa Fe ice cream shop to California so they could be closer to the organic ingredients used in their products, which often feature herbs and spices. The store carries 24 flavors of certified organic ice cream and agave-sweetened sorbets, rotating from a repertoire of almost 100 flavors. Must-tries include black sesame, New Mexico green chile (available only during fall), lemongrass and orange-rosemary.
Though small, the colorful space offers a few inside seats plus a bench outside the large window. Basics: Compostable cups made from sugarcane ($2-$4.60); cones ($2.75-$5.35); single pint ($8). Bonus: Organic black sesame cones that are made in-house; custom ice cream cakes ($27-$47). Tara's location opened earlier this week in San Francisco's Metreon (Fourth and Mission streets) in the former Sony PlayStation store, which is part of Island Earth Farmers Market.
Humphry Slocombe Ice Cream Owner Jake Godby joins the group of several artisans who create unusual flavors, but he takes a slightly different course: He specializes in savory, salt-balanced ice cream, which occasionally delves into a meatier realm that includes foie gras.
Ten to 12 flavors, made from organic Straus dairy products, are offered daily, including about five standards like balsamic caramel, Blue Bottle Vietnamese coffee, and Secret Breakfast (bourbon and cornflakes). There are also rotating combinations such as Thai chile lime, white miso peach and sweet summer corn. Several restaurants also offer Humphry Slocombe ice cream - often in custom flavors.
The narrow store - with bright blue awning and faux Campbell's Soup can wall art - has several window seats along a narrow counter. Basics: Styrofoam cups or waffle cones ($2.25-$4.50); single pint ($7.50). Cash only.
Lush Gelato Argentina native Federico Murtagh started selling his gelato in farmers' markets after learning how to make it in 2006, then opened this small store three months ago. In addition to the store, Murtagh has several restaurant customers who purchase Buenos Aires gelato, his wholesale food service brand.
The sparsely decorated Lush Gelato store carries an always-changing lineup of 12 flavors from the multitude in Murtagh's recipe book. In-store flavors - made from organic ingredients whenever possible - include cardamom, dulce de leche, strawberry and lemon.
Basics: Compostable cups ($2.75-$5); single pint ($8); cones sometime in the future. Bonus: Generous scoops; this is one shop where the number of flavors in a cup is not strictly limited. 4184 Piedmont Ave. (at Linda), Oakland; (510) 547-1299. lushgelato.com. Noon-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, until 11 p.m. Friday-Saturday.
La Copa Loca This store named "the crazy cup" features gelato and sorbet made with imported Italian ingredients, including nuts, chocolate chips and espresso, as well as both local and imported fruit. Italian-born Mauro Pislor cooked professionally in Italy and in Bay Area Italian restaurants before opening his Mission District gelateria in 2005. A choice of 30 flavors includes coconut, sweet (red) pepper and strawberry-basil and passion fruit. Pislor also sells his product wholesale to restaurants and bakeries.